1969 – 70 Instrument Clusters

Many people and eBay sellers think that 1969 – 1970 instrument clusters are the same, but they are not. The early months of 1969 production from September to early January were lighter than the later production clusters.  The one in the picture on the left is considered “light teak”.  The one on the right is my 1970 unit and as you can see in the two pictures, the base of the cluster is shaped differently.  More later once I get the dash installed.

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Quiet Ride Solutions

I’m going to cheat a little on the concours route to improve the under layment that was originally put in from the factory because you’ll never see it and it will improve the noise level and hopefully the heat level of the car.  Since it is a 428 Super Cobra Jet, it has a 3.91:1 rear end so it will turn some RPM at road speeds.

Quiet Ride has an entire car kit which I ordered, knowing I wouldn’t get to use every piece. Some of it would be visible, so I’ll only use what I know is hidden.  These cars originally had some insulation as you can see in the next picture.

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The original carpet underlayment was a tar paper like material and it was pretty gooey.  The strips are sound deadener which go under the heat sheild.

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Rebuilding the Brake Distribution Block

You learn something new everyday about these cars and a while back was no exception.  I saw something about a rebuild kit for the brake distribution block and thought it would be best to rebuild this one because it was 40+ years old.  First off I’ll show you the difference between a 1969 distribution block and a 1970 for cars with front disc that need a proportioning valve to even out the pressure needed for a disc brake vs. a drum brake.  In 1969 (could be 1968 as well) vs. 1970, the big difference is the brake proportioning valve and it’s placement.

In 1969 the proportioning valve is attached to the bottom of the block:

Brake distribution block with brake proportioning valve

In 1970, the proportioning valve was inside the distribution block.

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1970 Brake distribution block

The rebuild kit is pretty simple and I’m sure well worth the money for braking safety. It came with new O-rings, gaskets and the spring.

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I have a tool that I’ll use in place of the brake light switch (middle) when bleeding the brakes so that the light will not come on like most Mustangs with that feature.  I’ll take pictures of it when the time comes.

Taillight Bezels

It has been awhile since I added anything to my blog because I’ve been way to busy working on putting the car together to work on adding blog entries.  I’ve been working so much, I thought I’d better get some done before I forgot what I’d done. On many of the Facebook groups, posters come up with creative reasons to post pictures of their cars, like “taillight Tuesdays” and “side shot Saturday”.  Since it was Tuesday, I decided to work on the new taillight bezels I got last week.  I didn’t get them done on this particular Tuesday, maybe I’ll post this article for the next “taillight Tuesday”.

In typical fashion, I couldn’t find the attaching hardware for the taillight bezels in the AMK “master body” kit (either it didn’t come in the kit or I misplaced them, which could be a possibility), but I did have the originals so they will suffice.

A good restoration tip is to compare the original with the replacement.  While the bezels themselves are really close on the outside, but the attaching stud did not have the correct appearance.  Most people might say why bother, but this is a detail that judges will look for and attention to this type of detail differentiates different levels of restorations.

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Replacement bezel stud

 

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Original bezel stud

It is easy to see that the original stud has a different end, and when removed, you can see the original color underneath.

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New stud and original stud comparison

So all were removed, the originals were bead blasted and wire wheeled to clean them up and then they were coated to match the originals.  The original nuts were inspected and some were in great shape after being cleaned and some were also coated to match the original finish.

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Re-coated nut on the left, original on the right.

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All the nuts, some original, some repainted. Can you see which ones are original?

 

The AMK Tail lamp wiring fasteners were also compared to the originals which were also in great shape.  The AMK is on the left with the original on the right.  The finish isn’t the same so the original will be used.

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AMK Tail light wiring fastener on the left, original on the right.

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The original bezel with the fasteners.

 

 

 

Windshield Wiper Motor

At one time this car had had some damage in some kind of wreck, so there were some things repainted.  Grabber Blue overspray on the windshield wiper motor was one clue:

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Another clue was the cowl black out had a hard line on the drivers side. This wouldn’t have been done at the factory.

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Before:

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In progress:

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After:

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Installed:

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Heater Box Rebuild

All heater boxes that haven’t ever been touched need restored. The kits are easy and you can use Google to find instructions easily enough.  I had to find a new heater motor, mine was seized up.  Being in the engine compartment with the 428, I wasn’t surprised.

Before:

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After:

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Media Blasting, Metal Work, Body Work and Paint

I initially thought I would do my own body work.  But I got intimidated and decided that this car needed worked on by someone with much more experience than I had.  So I talked to Jeff Yergovich at R&A Motorsports and they worked me in starting in mid March 2014 and it was finished on September 11, 2014.

The car was outside for quite a few years so it was in pretty bad shape.  One of the first things moved into our house in 2003 (or rather the detached garage) was the 1970 Mach 1 and 1968 Coupe.

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Like many people, I work on cars when I get time.  And having other Mustangs, I don’t always have as much time as one would thing.

In 2008, the car was taken to Eagle Auto Stripping to be blased with a plastic media blast, then blasted with glass bead.  Imagine driving down the road and seeing this:

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As usual, there was much more rust than what I thought there would be:

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Fellow club member and friend Tim Davis helped deliver, pickup and prime the car:

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At R&A, the floor was removed and a whole floor was put back in.

Photo Apr 18, 1 33 23 PM (Large)  Photo Apr 29, 3 55 35 PMPhoto Apr 25, 8 38 32 AM (Large)Photo Apr 29, 3 58 00 PM (Large)

Of course, before that, there were lots of patches done.

Photo Apr 28, 4 47 11 PM (Large) Photo Apr 28, 4 46 57 PM (Large) Photo Apr 28, 9 19 58 AM (1) (Large)Photo Apr 29, 1 44 56 PM (Large)

Quarter patches were done on both sides.

Photo May 05, 2 12 31 PM (Large)Photo May 07, 3 42 06 PMPhoto May 05, 4 10 38 PM (Large)  Photo May 05, 2 50 19 PM (Large)Photo May 23, 12 58 20 PM (Large)Photo May 27, 9 13 36 AM (Large)

 

The battery tray was replaced, patches were done on the aprons.

Photo Jun 23, 1 18 52 PM (Large) Photo Jun 23, 4 46 54 PM (Large)

Panels were fit, doors were patched and fit getting ready for paint.

Photo Jun 27, 3 58 12 PM (Large) Photo Jul 22, 10 38 45 AM (Large) Photo Jul 29, 8 07 54 AM (Large)Photo Jul 29, 8 08 17 AM (Large)

 

 

More body work, primer, more body work….

Photo Aug 06, 2 10 06 PM (Large) Photo Aug 08, 1 58 15 PM (Large) Photo Aug 21, 4 10 35 PM (Large)Photo Aug 21, 9 06 20 AM (Large)

Since this is Dearborn built car, the under side was shot with “slop” or “batch” grey.  Ford used whatever was reclaimed and left over from shooting all cars mixed together on the undercarriage and certain parts.

Photo Aug 22, 1 56 59 PM (Large) Photo Aug 22, 1 57 11 PM (Large)

Then the car was undercoated and seam sealed in all the right places.

Photo Aug 26, 4 24 08 PM (Large) Photo Aug 26, 4 24 29 PM (Large) Photo Aug 26, 4 24 12 PM (Large)Photo Aug 26, 4 24 51 PM (Large)

Then we got color and clear.

Photo Aug 27, 2 53 38 PM (Large) Photo Aug 27, 5 05 54 PM (Large) Photo Aug 28, 9 51 04 AM (Large)Photo Aug 28, 9 51 59 AM (Large)

Other parts were painted and cleared.
Photo Aug 28, 3 58 22 PM (Large) Photo Aug 29, 4 32 45 PM (Large) Photo Sep 04, 1 07 30 PM (Large)Photo Sep 04, 1 06 52 PM (Large)

Then the engine compartment was painted.

Photo Sep 05, 3 31 38 PM (Large)Photo Sep 05, 4 00 09 PM (Large) Photo Sep 09, 8 51 54 AM (Large) Photo Sep 09, 8 53 07 AM (Large)

Stripe was painted.  Note there is no “428” in the stripes.  This car was built in October of 1969, to early to get the engine size.  A hood from a car in the same date range as mine was used as a template.  It was a 70 Twister.

Photo Sep 09, 3 21 58 PM (Large)Photo Sep 09, 3 29 13 PM (Large)  Photo Sep 09, 3 25 58 PM (Large)Photo Sep 09, 4 28 31 PM (Large)

Other black was added. Details in all the right places.

Photo Sep 08, 3 20 06 PM (Large) Photo Sep 09, 8 50 32 AM (Large) Photo Sep 09, 8 53 15 AM (Large)Photo Sep 09, 8 52 54 AM (Large)

Then the fenders, hood, decklid, valances were assembled and the car was delivered back to my shop.
Photo Sep 10, 8 40 36 AM (Large)Photo Sep 10, 1 33 13 PM (Large)IMG_8771 (Large)IMG_8782 (Large)

 

Carburetor Restoration

Since the car was bought in 1980 when it was only 10 years old, most of the car was original.  The carb was the original Holly 4150 4V (735 CFM) used on 428 Cobra Jets without AC (Autolite part number D0ZF-9510-AB).

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Before:

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After restoration by Pony Carburetors which is no longer in business.

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Rim-Blow Steering Wheel Restoration

One thing that you need to remember when doing a restoration, is that you can’t do everything and there are some things that should be done by experts.  That’s my opinion, but there are many restorers who can do most everything and that is great!  But it I know my limitations so my steering wheel was sent out to The Rimblow Buddy.  They did an excellent job.

Before:

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After:

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If you want to do your own, here is an article with some tips from Mustang 360. Rim-Blow Steering Wheel Build